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On
August 23rd, 79 A.D., in a room in western Italy, Pliny the Younger
was busily noting down details of the phenomenon he was witnessing
across the bay from where he was staying. For the past couple of
days Mount Vesuvius had been making ominous noises and issuing a
black plume of smoke from the crater at its center. This plume of
smoke drifted over the town of Pompeii, which lay eight kilometers
south of the foot of the mountain. The people of Pompeii were aware
of the threat from the volcano and most of the 20,000 citizens were
frantically packing their personal belongings and moving quickly
out of town.
Pliny the Younger's uncle (Pliny the Elder) made several trips
across the Bay of Naples with a flotilla of fishing boats to help
those in need.
The next day, Vesuvius erupted. Pliny the Younger described the
huge, dark cloud, resembling a pine tree, coming out of the mouth
of the mountain (later estimated by scientists to have reached 32
km in height). After that, a cloud of ash, gas and rock poured down
the sides of the mountain onto the surrounding towns and villages.
As the volcano erupted, there were several earth tremors which caused
the sea to be sucked away and then thrown back with force, a phenomenon
known these days as a tsunami. Day turned to night and even though
Pliny the Younger and the other villagers were 30 kilometers from
the eruption, they were forced to flee as rock and sheets of ash
fell on them. They survived but Pliny the Elder was less fortunate;
overcome by carbon dioxide fumes, he died on the shores of the Bay
of Naples, trying to save the lives of those trapped in the seaside
towns.
More than 2,000 people from Pompeii died and in all, the disaster
claimed more than 3,500 victims. Thanks to Pliny the Elder many
lives were saved and thanks to Pliny the Younger a record of the
entire event exists in precise detail. Nevertheless, after the dust
had settled, Pompeii lay buried under 23 meters of rock and ash
for more than 1,400 years, believed by all to have been lost forever.
In 1599 an architect named Fontana was digging a new course for
the River Sarno when he discovered Pompeii. It is rumored that he
was so embarrassed after finding some of the famous erotic paintings
that he promptly re-buried them and mentioned nothing further. It
was another 150 years before any serious excavations were made at
Pompeii. Some startling discoveries were made which, in 1748, German
archaeologist Johann Wincklemann brought to the attention of the
world. The ash that covered Pompeii had mixed with rainwater and
formed a hermetic seal over it, freezing it in time. As the seal
was removed, a snapshot of Roman life in the 1st century began to
emerge. The mosaics, paintings and statues were perfectly preserved
and even evidence of 'street' Latin was found on the city walls
which, when cleaned, revealed carved graffiti. One mosaic at the
entrance of a house declared 'Cave canem', which means 'Beware of
the dog', while another optimistically read 'Salve lucru', meaning
'Welcome money'.
These days the foothills of Vesuvius are fertile; the famous wine
Lachryma Christi is produced here. There are around three million
people living in and around the area but they, like their ancestors
before them, are playing a risky game. Vesuvius is not dead, it's
only taking a nap. There have been more than 36 eruptions since
79 A.D., claiming many more lives. The last big eruption was in
1944 but nobody knows when the next will be.
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